I’ve been thinking today about what a great job the cooking
oil industry has done of controlling the conversation about its product.
Case-in-point: Which oil do you think is healthiest? Olive,
coconut, flaxseed, and avocado are all contenders, right?
Trick question. Oil is NOT a health food.
First of all, it’s pure fat. Yes, we all need fat,
literally; we can’t produce, or in some cases absorb, some of the essential
nutrients we need to live without it. But oil fat devoid of any other benefits of
the food
from which it is derived. In order to get the pure fat, manufacturers have to process the hell out of
most oils, a process that includes solvents and a lot of energy expenditure. It’s
amusing to me that people who pride themselves on eating as close to the bottom
of the food chain as possible even consider cooking oils food, much less argue
about which is best.
Second, it weighs in at 120 calories a tablespoon, give or
take a tablespoon. And that’s true whether you’re eating “healthy” olive oil or
“artery-clogging” lard. And a tablespoon is a lot less than most people
typically use just to oil a pan before sautéing vegetables. Table sugar only
has 48 calories in a tablespoon. Table sugar is also a highly refined delicious
food. But it needs to hire oil’s marketing company, because it has a horrible
rep.
Thirdly, it’s not like most Americans need that extra dose
of fatty acids, anti-oxidants, or even flavor-enhancing qualities. We seem to
get plenty of fat from our regular diets. Even if it’s healthy, it’s probably
an overdose to add olive oil to everything.
And yet, somehow, we’ve all been convinced that added oil is
necessary for cooking AND for health. I found this quote on HowStuffWorks.com:
“Olive oil helps carry the flavor of foods and spices,
provides a pleasing feel in the mouth, and satisfies the appetite. Liberal use of it will enhance both
savory and sweet dishes without guilt
because of its wonderful health-boosting properties.” [emphasis added]
How do I get whoever wrote that sentence to write up my
professional bio? “Vena’s endless sarcasm and innate lack of discipline are
much beloved by her millions of raving fans. Spend as much time as you can with
her, because she’s guaranteed to make your day.”
Anyway…because I hate discovering that something I’ve always
believed (it’s the CHOICE of your cooking oil that matters, not WHETHER you use
it) and because it seems really hard to cook good food without using any oil
(How will I keep my scrambled eggs from sticking to the pan? How will I make
the harissa sauce silky-smooth? How will I get the vegetables to crisp, instead
of steam? Where will the flavor come from, if not butter?) I’m going to try
exactly that for a week. Because pictures are worth 1,000 words, I’ll post the
results on Instagram instead of this blog.
If anyone has tips for cooking without oil, I’d love to hear
them.
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